Furore, a glimpse of Norway on the Amalfi Coast

A "town that isn't" and a fiord bang in the middle of Italy's Amalfi Coast.

The impressively named Furore ('Fury' in Italian), is often referred to as "the town that isn't". In fact, unlike the great majority of towns and villages in Italy, Furore has neither main square nor town center, consisting instead of a sprinkling of little cottages clinging to the rock face.

Roberto Rossellini filmed the second episode of his movie "L'Amore" here. During shooting, Rossellini and the leading female protagonist, Anna Magnani, became lovers and spent time in one of the town's "monazzeni", which the actress later purchased. "Villa della Storta" is now open to the general public.

Travelers reach Furore via the coastal road which zigzags its way through the terraced vineyards and olive groves between Amalfi and Positano and which, at a certain stage, plummets down towards the sea by way of a series of stomach churning turns. A natural spectacle, normally associated with much more northern climes, the fiord was created by the passage of the Schiato torrent, the bed of which is now almost always dry, and represents the heart of "the town which doesn't exist".
The area's inhabitants, who were terrified by the noise of the waves which, during violent sea storms, crashed against the walls of the fiord, used to call the place the 'Terra Furoris', 'the Land of Fury'. In the past, when the whole area was dominated by Amalfi, Furore was a tiny and impregnable stronghold, protected by its unique geographic position.

On the beach

To access the small beach nestled amidst the rocks, holidaymakers will need to descend a flight of some 200 steps which commence at the height of the state road

• 

On the beach, at the foot of the sheer cliffs, there are a number of recently restored "monazzeni", old sheds in which the fishermen used to store their tools and which, in the past, provided refuge for characters such as Ruggieri di Agerola, the legendary bandit cited in Boccaccio's Decameron.
Close to the "monazzeni" there is an old paper factory, complete with paper press and a mill, which houses Furore's Eco Museum.

• 

Each year, on the first Sunday of July, the 30 meter high bridge which spans the fiord becomes the stage for the MarMeeting, world high diving championship. A thrilling event which can be watched from the Furore beach.

The murals of Furore

Some 3000 steps link the fiord with the houses of Furore, steps which, until the 1990's, provided the only connection between the area's high and low lands.
Furore is a member of the Associazione Paesi Dipinti Italiani (Italian Association of Painted Towns) and the walls of its dwellings are decorated with the murals realized by artists of international renown.
Visitors should be sure to take a look at the 11th century Church of San Giacomo Apostolo which houses a cycle of recently-discovered frescoes by the school of Giotto.

• 

The typical dish of Furore is the tasty "totani e patate" (squid and potatoes), the perfect gastronomic symbol of a town which so dramatically unites the sea and land.

Tramonti, the Amalfi Coast hidden between the mountains

In the Monti Lattari, a town which has contributed to making mozzarella and pizza famous throughout the world.

Thirteen districts nestled in a green valley in the Monti Lattari. Tramonti, as its name indicates, is situated amidst the mountains.
A charming town, surrounded by streams, olive trees, vineyards and terraced vegetable patches, or "gardens" as they are fondly called by those that tend them, Tramonti is said to have been founded by the Picentini, after they were forced inland by the Ancient Romans.

Things to see in Tramonti

One of the most interesting places to visit in the town, the Castle of Santa Maria La Nova once had seven bastions and ten towers. Also worthy of mention is the Chapel of San Michele Arcangelo, in the district of Gete, which dates back to the period between the 8th and 12th century and which is surrounded by tombs of the hermit monks who once resided here. In the district of Pucara, the Church of Sant'Erasmo conserves works by Luca Giordano whilst, in the district of Figline, the Church of San Pietro Apostolo features an exquisite majolica floor.

A taste of Tramonti

• 

No matter how high the temperature rises on the sun baked beaches of the Amalfi Coast below, in Tramonti the air is always refreshingly cool, making it the ideal place for cheese making. The town's mozzarella fiordilatte is one of Italy's finest cheeses and one of the principal ingredients in a gastronomic delicacy which has made Tramonti famous throughout the world: pizza'''.

It is said that the pizza of Tramonti was 'invented' as a way of using up the dough left over from bread-making. To this simple base, tomato and a sprinkling of cheese were added. The resulting "pizza", was cooked in a wood burning oven, and then shared amongst friends.

• 

Immediately after the Second World War, a number of young men from the town emigrated North. Here they opened a series of pizzerias. Today there are almost 3000 pizzerias making the Pizza of Tramonti, the recipe of which was certified in 1991 during the very first Tramonti Pizza Festival.

August festivals between Furore and Tramonti

Sagra dei totani e patate (Furore)

Festival della Pizza (Tramonti)

Sagra del fior di latte (Agerola)