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- Practical Guide to the Amalfi Coast — Fall 2026
Practical Guide to the Amalfi Coast — Fall 2026
Last updated: October 13, 2026
Across the Amalfi Coast, most hotels and restaurants close at the end of October, and the few restaurants that stay open cater mostly to locals. Most ferries along the coast stop running then too. On the plus side, the roads and the SITA buses are much quieter than in summer.
In winter, Amalfi is the liveliest town on the coast. For a wider choice of hotels and restaurants, we suggest staying in Sorrento and visiting the Amalfi Coast on day trips. With little traffic, the drive is easier than in summer.
Traffic and driving in fall and winter
Traffic and driving in fall and winter
The SS163, the road that runs the length of the coast, is only about 23 feet (7 meters) wide for two-way traffic. In winter it has little traffic, and driving yourself is a reasonable option if you are used to narrow mountain roads.
During heavy rain, the SS163 often closes because of falling rocks. If you have a train, a ferry, or a flight to catch, leave plenty of extra time.
Roadwork on the Sorrento road (SS145)
Transfers from Naples and from Naples Capodichino Airport (NAP) to Positano use the SS145, the road to Sorrento. Since October 19, Anas has been replacing the expansion joints on the San Marco viaduct near Castellammare di Stabia, and the work is expected to last until the end of the year or early 2027. Traffic alternates in a single lane, controlled by a traffic light day and night, and backs up. On the same stretch, the Varano tunnel closes from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m., Monday through Friday except public holidays, with detours signposted on site. If you have a flight out of Naples, leave Positano very early: local travel agents recommend heading out at least five hours before takeoff. The Circumvesuviana train from Sorrento to Naples avoids the road, but delays are common.
License plate restrictions end on October 31
In October, the odd/even license plate restriction on the SS163 between Vietri sul Mare and Positano applies only on weekends and public holidays, from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM. From November 1 there is no restriction until next season.
How it works: on odd-numbered days, cars with a plate ending in an odd digit cannot drive on that stretch; on even-numbered days, cars with a plate ending in an even digit cannot. Residents of the 14 coast towns, guests with a confirmed lodging reservation on the coast (on arrival and departure days), taxis, and chauffeured cars are exempt. Motorcycles and scooters are not restricted.
The Positano ZTL runs all year
The ZTL (limited traffic zone) is active 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, on Via Pasitea, Piazza dei Mulini, and Via C. Colombo. It applies only to vehicles with more than 5 seats, counting the driver's seat. If your car has 5 seats or fewer, you do not pay the ZTL fee.
Fees (Municipal Resolution no. 37/2024): €5 for a single trip through the zone, €100 a month, €500 for six months, €800 a year. You can pay only online, at ztlpositano.it via PagoPA, after registering and getting approval from the local police. Paying the fee does not allow you to stop or park inside the ZTL.
Parking
The main lots are Parcheggio Mandara and, farther down, Parcheggio dei Mulini, on the road that leads from the SS163 down to the town center. In winter you can find a space, but parking is still expensive.
Getting to and around the coast in winter
Getting to and around the coast in winter
Most ferries stop at the end of October
Ferries along the coast generally end their season in late October. The Positano-Capri route runs a few days longer: in 2026 the last sailings are on November 3 (NLG hydrofoil) and November 4 (Lucibello ferry)-
A few companies, such as Grassi in Positano, run boats all year. Do not plan around them, though: from November to March, rough seas often cancel their sailings, because Positano has no enclosed harbor, only a landing dock. On a calm day, their boats are a pleasant alternative to the bus.
SITA buses
The SITA bus connects Sorrento with Positano, Amalfi, and the towns along the SS163 all year, and in winter it is the most reliable way to get around, except when heavy rain closes the road. There are fewer runs than in summer, but no crowds and little traffic. Check when the last bus of the day leaves before you plan dinner in another town.
Circumvesuviana
The Circumvesuviana connects Naples and Sorrento all year. In Sorrento, the SITA bus to the coast leaves from in front of the station. The Campania Express, the tourist train that makes fewer stops than the regular Circumvesuviana, has been suspended since October 1, 2026.
From Naples airport
Naples Capodichino Airport (NAP) is closed for all of November 2026, and flights to Naples are moved to Salerno or Rome (Fiumicino and Ciampino). If you fly in November, check which airport is on your ticket before you book a transfer.
When the airport is open, the Curreri bus connects it with Sorrento.
Most ferries stop at the end of October
Ferries along the coast generally end their season in late October. The Positano-Capri route runs a few days longer: in 2026 the last sailings are on November 3 (NLG hydrofoil) and November 4 (Lucibello ferry)-
A few companies, such as Grassi in Positano, run boats all year. Do not plan around them, though: from November to March, rough seas often cancel their sailings, because Positano has no enclosed harbor, only a landing dock. On a calm day, their boats are a pleasant alternative to the bus.
SITA buses
The SITA bus connects Sorrento with Positano, Amalfi, and the towns along the SS163 all year, and in winter it is the most reliable way to get around, except when heavy rain closes the road. There are fewer runs than in summer, but no crowds and little traffic. Check when the last bus of the day leaves before you plan dinner in another town.
Circumvesuviana
The Circumvesuviana connects Naples and Sorrento all year. In Sorrento, the SITA bus to the coast leaves from in front of the station. The Campania Express, the tourist train that makes fewer stops than the regular Circumvesuviana, has been suspended since October 1, 2026.
From Naples airport
Naples Capodichino Airport (NAP) is closed for all of November 2026, and flights to Naples are moved to Salerno or Rome (Fiumicino and Ciampino). If you fly in November, check which airport is on your ticket before you book a transfer.
When the airport is open, the Curreri bus connects it with Sorrento.
From Salerno-Costa d'Amalfi Airport
A 2026 development worth noting: Salerno-Costa d'Amalfi Airport now has growing connections to European destinations. For summer, Aeroitalia operates direct flights to Palma de Mallorca, Ibiza, Mykonos, and Santorini, as well as London, Milan, Vienna, and Brussels. From Salerno Airport, the Amalfi Coast is about 30–40 minutes by car.
What is open in winter
What is open in winter
Restaurants: most close at the end of October. Amalfi has the widest choice on the coast. Call ahead to make sure a restaurant is open.
Beaches: beach clubs are closed. You can still walk on Spiaggia Grande and Fornillo beach and, on warm days, sit in the sun.
Boat tours: most tours from Positano end with the ferry season.
Shops and supermarkets: small grocery and convenience stores close from 1:00 to 4:00 PM. The nearest large supermarkets are in Piano di Sorrento, 20-25 minutes by car from Positano.
The Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei)
The Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei)
Fall is a good season for the Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei): the 4-5 mile (7-8 km) walk from Bomerano to Nocelle is cooler, and the trail is less crowded. In winter, days are short and wet rock gets slippery on the exposed sections.
Footwear: closed-toe shoes with good grip.
Water: at least 1.5 liters (about 50 fl oz) per person.
Weather: do not set out after rain, and start early enough to finish before dark.
Route: stay on the marked trail.
Guide: book one if you are not used to uneven mountain terrain.