Practical Guide to the Amalfi Coast — Summer 2026

Traffic on the SS163 in spring and summer can reach extreme levels, especially on weekends and public holidays. The SS163, the state road that runs the entire length of the coast, is just 7 meters wide for two-way traffic and has no practical alternative.

Days when we strongly advise against driving on the coast:

• Easter and Easter Monday (April 5–6, 2026)

• Liberation Day and May Day holiday period (approximately April 24 to May 4)

• Every Saturday and Sunday in July and August

Our recommendations for getting around without frustration:

• Do not rent a car to drive yourself along the coast. Roads are narrow, shared with buses, scooters coming through blind spots, and pedestrians crossing anywhere. Parking is scarce and expensive, and most historic centers are restricted traffic zones. It can quickly ruin your trip.

• Think carefully before renting a scooter: it is a practical option, but only if you have real experience riding on two wheels.

• Book a private transfer well in advance. Finding one last-minute in high season is very difficult: do not leave it until the last moment.

• Curreri Bus from Naples Capodichino to Sorrento: an affordable and convenient option for those arriving at Naples Airport.

Book your private transfer

License Plate Rotation on the Amalfi Coast

Every summer, the SS163 operates under a license plate rotation system managed by ANAS. How it works: on even-numbered dates, cars with an even last digit on their license plate cannot circulate; on odd-numbered dates, cars with an odd last digit are restricted. The restriction is in effect from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, between Vietri sul Mare and Positano.

Exemptions apply to: residents of the 13 municipalities along the Amalfi Coast, holders of a disability permit, guests of accommodation facilities with a confirmed booking (for arrival and departure transfers only), and non-resident workers employed in the area. Two-wheeled vehicles are not affected by the restriction.

The official dates for 2026 have not yet been announced.

The Amalfi Coast draws visitors from around the world, and this has a direct effect on how manageable the experience is at any given time of day.

Timing is the main factor. Arriving before 9:00 AM means finding the town still quiet, with shopkeepers opening up and locals at the café. Those who arrive after 11:00 AM in summer find Via Pasitea already congested, SITA buses struggling to pass, and parking lots full. The situation eases considerably after 5:00 PM. Staying overnight gives you a substantially different experience from a day visit.

To get away from the crowds, you often only need to move a few hundred meters from the main route. The Li Parlati neighborhood, in the upper part of town, is virtually unknown to day-trippers. Fornillo Beach, reachable on foot from Spiaggia Grande along the Sentiero degli Innamorati in about 10 minutes, is noticeably quieter and has a handful of beach clubs and bars with slightly lower prices. The hamlets of Montepertuso and Nocelle, reachable by the local bus that departs every 30 minutes from Piazza dei Mulini, offer wide views over the Gulf of Salerno and good restaurants. Beyond Positano, the village of Praiano consistently offers a calmer atmosphere.

The Circumvesuviana

The Circumvesuviana connects Naples to Sorrento with fairly frequent service. The main limitation is comfort: trains can be very crowded, seating is not guaranteed, and most trains do not have air conditioning.

Once in Sorrento, you will need to take a SITA bus to reach the Amalfi Coast. The bus terminal is directly in front of the train station.

Circumvesuviana schedules

SITA Buses to the Amalfi Coast

SITA buses connect Sorrento with Positano, Amalfi, and the towns along the SS163. Due to traffic, schedules are not always kept, and at intermediate stops you may encounter a bus that is already full and cannot stop.

The most problematic stretch is the return from Positano to Sorrento in the afternoon: long queues form at the two town stops, and buses arriving from the Amalfi direction are often already at full capacity. In this case, the afternoon ferry to Sorrento is more reliable and, later in the day, more pleasant. In the morning, catching the bus from the Sorrento terminus is not an issue.

Amalfi Coast bus schedules

Hydrofoils and Ferries

Hydrofoils and ferries are the most reliable way to travel along the coast and between the coast and the islands of the Gulf. They keep to schedules better than buses and let you see the landscape from the water. Book tickets in advance in July and August, and try to travel in the early morning.

All ports along the Amalfi Coast are very small, and long queues form easily.

Keep in mind that sailings toward the Amalfi Coast are the first to be suspended in rough seas: Positano has no enclosed harbor, only a landing dock, and boarding becomes impossible in high waves.

Amalfi Coast hydrofoil and ferry schedules

From Salerno-Costa d'Amalfi Airport

A 2026 development worth noting: Salerno-Costa d'Amalfi Airport now has growing connections to European destinations. For summer, Aeroitalia operates direct flights to Palma de Mallorca, Ibiza, Mykonos, and Santorini, as well as London, Milan, Vienna, and Brussels. From Salerno Airport, the Amalfi Coast is about 30–40 minutes by car.

Salerno Costa d'Amalfi Airport

Whatever you plan to do on the Amalfi Coast, book as early as possible.

Restaurants

For a standard restaurant, a call or message a few days in advance is usually enough. At the most well-known spots in Positano and Amalfi, the booking process has become increasingly involved every year: some venues require a credit card to confirm, others have waiting lists of several weeks. If you cannot get a response, choosing a less well-known alternative is almost always the better option: the food is usually better, the prices lower, and the service more attentive. For large groups, a deposit is almost always required.

Boat Tours

Availability is limited: from June onward, finding open spots on tours is difficult, particularly from Positano to Capri. If you cannot find availability on your preferred date, consider taking the hydrofoil to Capri and booking a boat directly from Marina Grande. Availability tends to be better there, prices are often lower, and you can also explore on foot. Advance booking is still necessary at Capri.

Afternoon departures generally have more availability than morning ones, and sunset tours are almost always bookable until a few days before. Note that the landing fee for private boats at Marina Grande in Capri coming from the mainland is €100 and is never included in tour prices.

Book a boat tour

Beaches

Beaches along the Amalfi Coast are few in number, often small, and set between the cliffs. In Positano, the main options are Spiaggia Grande, right in the center, and Fornillo Beach, quieter, reachable on foot in 10–15 minutes. Further out, Arienzo and Laurito: the beach clubs at these two beaches run a boat service from Spiaggia Grande and should be booked well in advance. In Amalfi, the best options are the small coves nearby: Duoglio, Santa Croce, and the beaches of Atrani, a few minutes from the center.

Most beach clubs require a reservation, which in many cases can be made directly on the venue's website. In July and August, book at least a week ahead, especially for weekends.

Beaches of the Amalfi Coast

The Path of the Gods has become one of Italy's most visited hikes, and it shows. The classic route starts from Bomerano, a hamlet of Agerola, and ends at Nocelle, above Positano: roughly 7–8 km along a ridge with wide views over the Gulf of Salerno and the islands.

It is still a mountain trail, despite the crowds. Attempting it without the right preparation is a common mistake with sometimes serious consequences: the terrain is uneven, exposed sections without guardrails are frequent, and in summer the sun is strong for much of the route.

• Footwear: closed shoes with grip soles. No flip-flops, no flat-soled sneakers.

• Water: at least 1.5 liters per person.

• Sun protection: hat and sunscreen are essential in summer.

• Route: stay on marked trails, do not deviate.

• Guide: recommended for anyone not used to hiking on uneven mountain terrain.

There is currently no mandatory booking requirement to hike independently, but guided tours require advance booking, especially from May onward. The best periods are spring (April–May) and late summer (September–October).

The Path of the Gods

Fiordo di Furore

The Fiordo di Furore is more than a photo location: it is a contained world of history, nature, and adrenaline, with a SS163 bridge 28 meters high that since 1983 has hosted the Marmeeting, an international cliff-diving competition held every first Sunday of July. On TikTok and Instagram it is among the most shared images from the coast, thanks to its almost Nordic visual effect set within the Mediterranean. Many visitors crowd the narrow staircase for the classic Instagram shot. Keep in mind: parking on the road is not possible. The best photos are taken from the water.

The Terraces of Positano

The most scenic terrace for photos in Positano is at Franco's Bar or at the souvenir shop next door (Via Cristoforo Colombo 6–8). The ceramics shop allows photos if you make a purchase, or for a flat fee of €5.